Saturday, August 23, 2014

In search of good food- Indore Diaries-Part1-Saraafa Bazaar

The importance of Indore is highlighted in various sacred texts from ages of Parmar dynasty to Holkars.It has been a major educational hub developed extensively by Devi Ahilyabai Holkar in 1800s and currently the only city to have both IIT and IIM.It is not only education that attracts people here, you can very well, call it the Mecca of Vegetarian cuisine.

We had to visit this place to understand how it binds people together for generations to Indore.

Why we say so,just announce that you are visiting Indore and you will have the faithful screaming Saraafa Saraafa Saraafa!!!
 We had to start our foodie pilgrimage by visiting the legendary Saraafa bazaar at Indore.It usually begins after 8pm(Mon-Sat) and by 6 PM(Sunday) when all silver & gold showrooms have closed their shutters This is not just a gully which serves food but a place that weave memories.We are lucky to visit this on national holiday so the street is already bustling with flavors by 5pm.There are few shops which are open thoroughout the day while few need a specific time of visit.

Our first halt is at Vijay Chat house at the entrance of Saraafa bazaar which is famous for its kopra and bafla(potato) patties(actually refers to huge balls of potatoes with stuffing of dry fruits and dry coconut deep fried till its golden brown).You can also try the aloo badaa and kachori served with mint chutney.Though there is small seating arrangement, most of the people love to eat it just outside the shop.

                                                                 We then move on to Joshi Dahi bade wale which is run by its 3rd generations and is known more for Joshi ji's histrionics than its taste.Dahi badas and Bhutte ki kachori has its own league of followers here.

Right next to Joshi Dahi Bade is Nagori shikanji,which is mecca for people who love their milkshakes.Although Shikanji is all over India might be Lemonade but Shikanji here is out of the world.You need to be at the shop early as it is over by 2pm and every Indori swears by its taste.It is a concoction of concentrate of full fat milk rabadi and cut fruits.One glass at this
tiny outlet and you are relishing the taste to eternity.Saraafa is a gully of outlets serving you satisfaction to your sweet tooth- Rabadi, Moong daal Halwa,gajar halwa syrupy jalebis to hot gulab jamuns,Kala jamuns and mawa bati.You will find each and every street food from the different places of India here.

Right opposite to Nagori Shikanji is Rajhans Daal Bafla ladoo thali at 2nd floor which looks like a distant cousin of Daal baati churma.This unlimited thali at Rs150 serves its patrons with huge quantity of salad daal kadi mint and garlic chutney, dry laddu, peas pulao, and baafla which is served with oodles of ghee or clarified butter.This is definitely the pride of Indore- Daal Bafla @Rajhans is a hit with all generations

Our next halt is at Suresh Chat Center which opens after Punjabi saraf jewelers shuts down around 9pm.Spicy bhutte ki kees, samosa,kachori and garadu await us.
The Saraafa adventure has just begun..people are selling chole tikkis, Malpuas,pani patasha in 6 flavors(same as gol gappas), to spicy Indian Chinese and you are spoilt forever.

Next to it is a stall serving masala dosa pav bhaji while the opposite stalls sell delicious rabadi, malpuas, rasmalais and rassgullas.Truely there is no food that we will not get here.The love for food is visible in every gully of Indore, this is the only place in India where you would get special khichdi counters which shows 'fast' is food business sabudana khichfi,faraali, aloo chips in various flavors tempt your taste bud
Truely our Saraafa fascination has just begun!


  1. The food city of India and now growing into a city of commercial importance. There are plenty of places to visit in Indore and this city has something for every tourist.

  2. Indore is the best food places for everyone to eat variety of foods.

  3. Indore is the best food places for everyone to eat variety of foods.